Wednesday, March 7, 2007

L.A. Food Noir, Part I: Kate Mantilini


My day job requires that I regularly travel throughout the U.S. and Canada, and I'm spending much of this week in Southern California. One nice perk of my job is that it affords me the opportunity to visit interesting hotels and restaurants, and both my lodging and dining choices on this trip reflect my other great passion, film.

Monday afternoon, I checked into L.A.'s historic Biltmore Hotel. An erstwhile venue for the Academy Awards, this has also been a filming location for movies ranging from Beverly Hills Cop to The Fabulous Baker Boys. Even though I had never been here before, I was able to find my way to my room based on what I had seen in the movies. For the record, I did not ask the restaurant host if I could have a word with Victor Maitland before "parts of the man start falling off."

For dinner, I pointed the car down Wilshire (I feel like such a player in my rental Mercury) and ate at Kate Mantilini, named for a L.A. boxing promoter of yesteryear. More important, the menu states that Mantilini was the mistress of the restaurant's owner's uncle.

As to the restaurant itself, it's one of those boxy yet slick Beverly Hills venues popular with entertainment industry insiders, as evidenced by an $18.50 entree salad named for the Cannes Film Festival. The salad was decent, if a bit overdressed, and consisted of a heaping pile of mixed greens topped with smoked salmon and a finger of toasted sourdough covered with a slab of duck pate. For a starter, I had a $4.5o cup of corn chowder, which was helped by generous sprinklings of salt and pepper. Dessert consisted of a slice of icebox lemon pie, which resembled a less tart version of its key lime cousin.

The food was fine, although not exceptional, but as they say, there's a flip side to that coin. Kate Manitlini could have served me a warmed-over Big Mac and I still would have been happy to be there. How's that? Kate Mantilini is the setting for the greatest tough-guy film conversation of the last two decades, the late-night verbal duel between Al Pacino and Robert DeNiro in Michael Mann's L.A. crime epic, Heat.

Mann did effectively convey the nocturnal energy of the restaurant in this scene and unlike other film restaurant locations that I've patronized (notably the Deux Moulins cafe in Amelie), there wasn't a distinction between what I was experiencing and what was captured on film.

I plan on hitting another L.A. noir location for breakfast and I'll write about that soon. In the meantime, if anyone has any good dining suggestions for San Diego, let me know.

Friday, March 2, 2007

Sensational Senegalese Restaurant

Always searching for new ethnic dining experiences, we ventured to Aurora to try cuisine from Senegal. Our good friends Alexandre Philippe and Vanessa Bogehold took us to Le Baobab African Restaurant at 1447 Florence St. They were our guides to this delightful French-speaking family restaurant. An adorable toddler greeted us as we sat down in what felt like the owner's dining room. The little girl sat in my lap as I scanned the menu. Since most of Le Baobab's business appears to be take-out, we were the only customers.

We started the meal with an order of plantains and a round of ginger drinks. Freshly crushed ginger juice came in a pitcher and was refreshingly strong. I ordered a chicken (dark meat) and vegetable combination with couscous and the others tried the lamb dishes. All were tasty, cooked to order and very filling.
We were told that on occasion Senegalese music and dancing accompany a meal at Le Baobab. I highly recommend this African adventure in Aurora.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Happy Birthday to You or halfway through Chinese New Year!

Today, the seventh day of the two week long Chinese New Year celebration, is your birthday.

Chinese tradition holds that individual birthdates are of limited significance. Consequently, the halfway point of the New Year's celebration serves as a collective birthday when everyone adds a year to their age.

To celebrate this auspicious occasion, I had dinner tonight with several of my friends from the Boulder Asian Pacific Alliance (BAPA). For those of you unfamilar with BAPA, this non-profit organizes the Boulder Asian Festival as well as the Boulder Asian Film Festival. We met for a traditional meal at the King's Land Chinese Seafood Restaurant (2200 W. Alameda Ave., #44) in Denver.

As noted in The Gyros Journey, King's Land provides some of the highest quality Cantonese-style food in the Denver metro area at rock bottom prices. Our party consisted of four adults and two children and we enjoyed an outstanding celebratory meal for less than $70 before tax and tip.

We ordered a family-style dinner off the Chinese-language portion of the menu, and started with Peking duck served two ways, in soup and served with soft steamed buns, scallions, and hoi sin sauce. The buns were puffy and piping hot, the duck was full of flavor and meaty.

As a nod to the Year of the Boar, we also had tangy and tender sweet and sour pork, followed by crisply steamed stalks of gai lan, Chinese broccoli. The children wanted noodles, so we also had an order of chow fun, thick rice noodles with beef, onions, and bean sprouts.

Seafood plays a key role in New Year's festivities, mainly due to its symbolic relationship to good luck in the coming year. The walnut shrimp were covered in a light sweet and creamy sauce that complemented the freshness and firmness of the crustaceans.

Savoring a whole fried flounder, covered with scallions and chile peppers, is a surefire way to ensure prosperity. A dish of fresh ginger-garlic lobster (pictured with the walnut shrimp peeking out from the top of the photo) was perhaps an indication that we were already on a path to riches, at least of a culinary nature.

Also, some of you have been asking us about what Chinese restaurants don't use MSG. Joey informs me that Chopsticks China Bistro (2990 W. Mississippi Ave., Denver) does not.

What's been on your Year of the Boar menu?

Sunday, February 18, 2007

The Gyros Journey Makes the Best Seller List

Clay and I are very pleased to announce that we were named #3 on the Denver Post's local Nonfiction Paperback list. (Even though they did not put Clay's name in the paper-he says it is very Charlie Brownish.)

But we all know he is co-author! So, thank you for buying our book and making this possible.

Our next signing is March 25 at The Ferril House with Lighthouse Writers. There will be ethnic goodies galore.

Tuesday, February 6, 2007

Thanks to the Tattered Cover and everyone who came last night

Joey wrote this up to express our gratitude for everyone that participated last night:

Thanks to The Tattered Cover last night for a great event. And to Govinda's, Cafe Berlin and Cuba Cuba for the treats. Our book signing came complete with fried plaintains, an Indian vegetarian rice dish and German sausage with mustard. After these taste tempting treats, we got down to the business of the book. Thank you all for asking questions, giving us suggestions for new restaurants to review and for your interest in ethnic dining. We discovered a slow food club in Denver and also want to wish the Metro students good luck on their journalism project - it's about our book!

Saturday, January 20, 2007

What are your favorite Front Range ethnic restaurants?

Now that we've disposed of all the blatant commericalism, Joey and I would love to hear about your favorite ethnic eateries in the Denver metro area.

Feel free to post your thoughts and favorites and to sweeten the deal we'll send a free copy of the book to the first one to post about their favorite area eatery (spammers not eligible, unless you're referring to spam musubi).

Right now, I'm holding off until dinner time before heading out to Longmont's Ichiban (2055 S. Ken Pratt Boulevard, Unit A) for either their bargain $12.95 sashimi platter or a steamy and satisfying bowl of sukiyaki.

What are you in the mood for?

UPDATE: I went for the sashimi after all. Along with rice and miso soup, here's what Ichiban's Chef Toyo conjured up tonight:

Upcoming Gyros Journey Events

For those of you that want to chat in person about ethnic eating and TGJ, Joey and I will be speaking and signing books at various Front Range locations over the next few months.

Littleton: I'll be talking about ethnic restaurants on Tuesday, January 30, 7:00-8:30 p.m. at the Bemis Public Library, 6014 S. Datura Street. Word on the street is that the library will provide samples of ethnic food.

Denver: Joey and I have a book signing at the Tattered Cover on Monday, February 5, 7:30 p.m. at 2526 E. Colfax Avenue. Great Ethiopian food and a way cool hot rod in the dining room down the road at the Africana Cafe (5091 E. Colfax Avenue).

Denver: The Lighthouse Writers Workshop, where Joey and I take screenwriting classes, will host a book signing on Sunday, March 25, time tba, at the Thomas Hornsby Ferril House at 2123 Downing Street.

Englewood: We'll also be at "Meet The Faces Behind The Books," a Colorado Author Open House, on Sunday, April 15, 1:00-3:00 p.m at the Englewood Public Library, 1000 Englewood Parkway.

Additionally, both of us are now writing food articles for the Boulder Weekly. The January 18 issue includes my review of The Royal Peacock and Joey's breakfast column on Lucile's Creole Cafe. If breakfast is your bag, you might want to check out Joey's other food book, Rise & Dine: Breakfast in Denver & Boulder.